One of the most beautiful things about
Chicago is our variety of cultural
neighborhoods. Not only do we have
Chinatown and Little Italy, we also have Andersonville and Pilsen which make
you think you have stumbled upon some kind of teleportation device to
Sweden and
Mexico, respectively, as soon as
you turn the corner. The
Ukrainian Village is yet another one of these
exceptionally cultural experiences. Today,
I led a tour through the neighborhood which showcased the area’s cuisine,
religion, history and architecture.
Our
first stop was the Holy Trinity Russian Orthadox Cathedral. Construction began in 1899 and on this
provincial style building, and it was completed four years later. It was designed by one of Chicago’s
most famous and beloved architects, Louis Sullivan (who also designed the Auditorium Building on Michigan Avenue right by the hostel!). The first group of immigrants who came to the
Village was divided emotionally over the existence of this church. Some strongly opposed it because it was
partially funded by Tsar Nicholas II of Russia,
and relations between Russia
and the Ukraine
have never been particularly warm. Others
really enjoyed the aesthetic appeal of the cathedral because it reminded them
of the small, intimate, rural buildings of the Old World.
Regardless of the original conflict of
ideals, Holy Trinity remains an important part of the neighborhood, and still
boasts a faithful congregation.
After
walking farther down Leavitt
Street, we came across the stunning St. Nicholas
Ukrainian Catholic Cathedral. The
building that stands now is not the original place of worship for the St. Nicholas
congregation, but it has been in use since January 7th (Christmas
according the Julian calendar), 1915. The
Byzantine-Slavonic architectural style was incorporated into the construction
of this cathedral, and its thirteen domes stand for Jesus Christ and each of the
twelve apostles.
At this point, we decided that it
would be good to stop for some traditional Ukrainian food. Old Lviv, a Ukrainian buffet, turned out to
be just the place we were looking for. It’s
a pretty small restaurant, but the server is friendly, and the food is fantastic. We had borscht, freshly made pierogies,
cucumber salad, potato pancakes, and more. Andrea came on the tour with me, and we were
able to sit and have nice conversation while we ate. She is originally from Mexico
City, but she has traveled all over the world to places like Japan, India,
Morocco, Egypt and Turkey. She’s staying in Chicago
for ten months in order to improve her English, and just before she got here,
she spent two months in Europe seeing the
sights. Even though she had a nice job
in the international department of a big company, she decided to quit and experience
as much of the world as she could. She
absolutely loves Chicago,
and would like to live and work here permanently if she is able to.
The next stop on the tour is the extravagant
Sts. Volodymyr and Olha Cathedral. It
was built in the Byzantine-Ukrainian style from 1971 to 1973, and the structure
demonstrates that style’s preference for circular patterns and avoidance of
angular designs. Patriarch Josyf Slipyj was
pivotal in all of its stages of development, which instills a sense of pride
among the congregation because of his role in the Ukrainian movement against
the Stalinist regime. He was the
Commissioner of the Faith in the Catholic Church, and in 1945 he was arrested
by the Soviets and held prisoner in Siberia
for eighteen years. Through the
intervention of Pope John XXIII and President John F. Kennedy, he was released
in 1963. The cathedral is named after
Volodymyr, the Grand Duke of Kyiv, who brought Christianity to the realm in 988
AD, and his grandmother, Olha.
Finally, we arrived at the
Ukrainian National Museum.
There was a temporary exhibit about two
Ukrainian artists who had moved to the
US, and one featured impressive
mosaics depicting women, flowers, and landscapes. Upstairs, we learned about the history of
Ukraine, from
the joyous tradition of painting the Pysanka Easter eggs to the horrifying
facts behind the Ukrainian genocide of 1932-33. After exploring the Ukrainian instruments,
clothing, weapons, and pottery, we were ready to get on our way back to the
hostel. We took the #66 back to the Blue
Line, and before we knew it, we were back on Congress. It seemed almost like a different world after
our time in the
Ukrainian
Village, and it was definitely
good to know that we could go back and visit the Old World any time we wanted to!
By: Intern Sarah Consoer